There's no doubting the appeal of Sonoma, home to a few of California's most venerable wineries. But the tiny community of Kenwood, just 10 miles north, is well price a visit. It's a destination for wine lovers, spa devotees and nature lovers in the guts of the Valley of the Moon.
This valley is home to quite a few Native American legends, including stories of mystical, sacred places where the moon may be seen rising and setting seven times each night—an illusion perhaps aided by the moonlight filtering through the jagged peaks of the Mayacamas Mountains, but romantic nonetheless.
This was also the setting for Jack London's 1913 novel Valley of the Moon, whose plot reflects London's journey from Oakland to this green valley. Today it’s home to greater than 100 wineries, including Kenwood Vineyardswhich sources its grapes from London's historic ranch in nearby Glen Ellen. But there's plenty more to do here than simply wine tasting, making it an ideal weekend getaway just an hour or two from the bay.
Beltane Ranchsouth of Kenwood, is an important base for weekend getaways. This 100-acre agricultural preserve is a historic property that has been owned by the Wood/Benward/Krause family for six generations. Today, the beautifully preserved 1892 farmhouse operates as an upscale inn, with modern features and amenities contrasting with antique elements and authentic farmhouse decor.
The property is managed regeneratively, with an orchard, garden, vineyard and farm residents—chickens, two longhorn cows, horses and a flock of geese—greeting you along the driveway. The stone wall you see along the driveway dates back to the 1870s, when landowner John Drummond reused the stones he'd cleared out to plant the unique vineyard with French cuttings. And the rose garden, raspberry bushes, tennis courts, pond views and lots of outside seating make this a well-liked spot for brides and the remaining of us.
Enjoy breakfast on the long wood dining table next to the library or in your private balcony. Chef Neil Corsten, formerly of Forestville's Farmhouse Inn, prepares a four-course meal paired with estate wine Thursday through Saturday and a wood-fired dinner on Sunday evenings. On other evenings, the inn offers cheese, charcuterie and provisions platters, amply stocked with delicious bites from local producers and the ranch.
Don't miss the comfy library, where you’ll be able to learn concerning the wealthy and amazing history of Beltane Ranch – especially the part about ranch owner Mary Ellen Pleasant, a self-made black millionaire and Nineteenth-century abolitionist.
If you could have a table available, reserve a table at Golden Bear Station. Chef Joshua Smookler and his wife Heidi He—whose full of life Sonoma restaurant Animo closed in December—opened this charming eatery in Kenwood soon after.
Sit on the white marble bar, where the bar stools are padded with sheepskin, and let the flickering candlelight, open kitchen, entertaining soundtrack and fresh flowers set the mood for the dining experience ahead. Order the signature grilled porcini mushrooms ($20) with sweet onion-yuzu cream and an egg yolk, and certainly one of the pizzas ($30-32) that Smookler has spent months perfecting. With deep crust from the wood-fired oven, these are unforgettable pizzas which might be juicy in one of the best ways.
Fresh pastas and mains round out the menu, and dessert is anything but an afterthought. Burnt Basque-style cheesecake ($14) and a brownie sundae for 2 ($24) with slices of pecan pie, ice cream and hot fudge sauce are only just a few of the choices. A small collection of wines by the glass, primarily Kenwood wines. And your bill is available in a fairly thanks card, almost like a parting gift – nobody has ever said that before.
Another great option for dinner and even just comfortable hour is Salt & Stone, which has a full of life atmosphere, plenty of outside seating and a seafood-focused menu, in addition to loads of cocktails for the wine-savvy palate. Try the beautiful Starry Night with lychee purée and butterfly pea ice cream.
To work off a number of the region's culinary prowess, make the most of the sprawling outdoors and oak-studded hills with a hike at Sugarloaf Ridge State Park, featuring 25 miles of trails within the Mayacamas Mountains and a seasonal waterfall on the headwaters of Sonoma Creek.
If all that seems too strenuous, it’s also possible to soak within the historic Morton's Warm Springs. Here, too, you’ll be able to enjoy scenic Sonoma Creek with its geothermal pools which might be heated to 85 to 93 degrees, depending on the weather. Psst, the on-site Café 108° serves homemade Meyer lemonade.
And to essentially round off the weekend, treat yourself to a Valley of the Moon massage on the Kenwood Inn & Spa, a heritage-listed constructing that has undergone a series of upgrades and renovations over the past 12 months. The spa is a tranquil, two-story retreat with a marble soaking tub, automated Japanese toilets, and a serene lounge area overlooking the pool below. After a lot rest, you'll return home completely grounded and prepared for the week ahead.
When you go
Beltane Ranch: Rooms from $344. 11775 Sonoma Highway in Glen Ellen; beltaneranch.com
Golden Bear Station: Open Wednesday through Saturday from 4:30 p.m. to 9:00 p.m. and Sunday until 8:30 p.m., 8445 Sonoma Highway in Kenwood; https://goldenbearstation.com.
Salt & Stone: Open for weekend brunch, dinner every day, and lunch daily except Wednesday at 9900 Sonoma Highway in Kenwood: saltstonekenwood.com.
Sugarloaf Ridge State Park: Open every day from 6 a.m. to eight p.m., 2605 Adobe Canyon Road in Kenwood. Day-use fees are $8 to $10 per vehicle. sugarloafpark.org.
Morton's Warm Springs: Open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a.m. to six p.m. throughout the summer season at 1651 Warm Springs Road in Glen Ellen. Day passes cost $15 to $25 with reservations at mortonswarmsprings.com.
The Kenwood Inn and Spa: The spa is open to day guests by reservation Monday through Thursday. 10400 Sonoma Highway in Kenwood; kenwoodinn.com
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