Everyone drives Interstate 80 to Lake Tahoe, passing through the rolling foothills of the Sierra Nevada, but relatively few turn north from Auburn onto Highway 49 – the “Gold Rush Highway” – to go to the towns of Grass Valley and Nevada City. These charming towns are only 4 miles apart but closely linked by history.
These were gold rush towns, swiftly settled within the mid-Nineteenth century. They swarmed with prospectors from everywhere in the world and were soon filled with mines. Much of the mining was hard rock and a flood of miners experienced on this method arrived from Cornwall, England, to dig underground tunnels. The Cornish connection continues to be clearly evident, from the Cornish Christmas celebrations in Grass Valley to the Cornish pasties or hand pies sold throughout the town.
Not so obvious are the tons of of kilometers of mine shafts which were drilled beneath the region. But there’s a strategy to get a minimum of a small glimpse into the harrowing history: Empire Mine State Historic Parkjust outside Grass Valley, must be on every visitor's “must do” list. It is, in a word, spectacular, with 856 acres of landscaped gardens, 14 miles of climbing and biking trails, picnic areas,
historic buildings, gardens and exhibitions – and naturally the mine itself.
From 1869 to 1929, it was owned by San Francisco entrepreneur William Bowers Bourn, Sr. – the identical family that built Woodside’s spectacular Filoli property. The Empire Mine was the “oldest, deepest and richest,” say guides, explaining that 5.8 million ounces of gold were mined before it closed in 1956. An incredible 367 miles of tunnels were drilled beneath the surface, including mine shafts a mile deep (now flooded). Docent-led tours explore the history of the mine and property and are well definitely worth the time.
You may also visit the free visitor center to see the large model of the 1938 mine complex, long kept secret. Learn more concerning the era in North Star Mining Museumwhere you may see, amongst other things, a 30-foot-high Pelton wheel (the most important on this planet on the time) and a personnel bucket used to move miners underground.
But back to the cities. You should stay somewhere, and although there’s a large alternative, from motels and B&Bs to a glamping resort, Holbrook Hotel in Grass Valley and National exchange in Nevada City are essentially the most outstanding options.
These beautifully restored historic buildings feature high-ceilinged guest rooms decorated in period style, architectural highlights to encourage, and unforgettable bars and restaurants. Over the last century, they’ve hosted a protracted list of famous people, from US presidents – Ulysses S. Grant, Grover Cleveland, Benjamin Harrison – to Mark Twain.
Two women also left their mark. Emma NevadaBorn in 1859 in a mining camp near Nevada City, she began singing at age 5 and was sent to Oakland to check music and languages. Her growing fame took her to Europe, where she began singing within the operatic style and adopted “Nevada” as her stage name, after her hometown.
The internationally known singer and dancer Lola Montez was as famous for her quite a few amorous affairs as she was for her daring “spider dance,” which resembled the tarantella of southern Italy. Montez lived in Grass Valley for under two years, 1853-55, but left an enduring mark. She was known for the salons she hosted and for eccentricities resembling a bear tied to the porch of her cottage. That cottage, at 248 Mill Street, is now a historic landmark. And the attractive Lola restaurant within the National Exchange is, in fact, named after her.
These cities have more to supply than a wealthy gold rush history. Today they’re known for his or her cultural
Pages. A recent restoration of Nevada City's Nevada Theaterwhich opened in 1865, included beautiful floor-to-ceiling murals by artist Sarah Coleman. The venue, said to be the oldest repeatedly operating theater on the West Coast, supports the local arts with theater, comedy, music and other performances. Grass Valleys Center for the ArtsMeanwhile, it sponsors many well-known touring acts who stop here throughout the week on their strategy to San Francisco, Sacramento or beyond.
Both cities live from special events, farmers’ markets and Summer nights Events to holiday celebrations, including Nevada City’s five-day Victorian Christmas and Grass Valleys Christmas in Cornwalltakes place on Friday evenings from 24 November to 24 December as a tribute to the Cornish miners who helped found the town.
The Golden Gate Bar on the Holbrooke and the National Bar on the National repeatedly host wonderful free Celtic music sessions. The National also hosts Wild West Wednesdays, Music Mondays and the occasional Drag Brunch.
And there’s far more. A variety:
Stroll through the cities' historic districts, take a horse-drawn carriage ride and marvel on the historical costumes worn by locals on weekends and holidays, browse the boutiques and explore the restaurants, coffeehouses, tap rooms and tasting rooms.
Don't miss a meal at BrewHaus, a block from the National. It's a energetic spot with a always-busy outdoor patio, local beer, and a tasty menu.
If you enjoy being outdoors, the list of things to do is limitless. Start with a visit to South Yuba River State Park in nearby Bridgeport to see, photograph and cross the longest surviving single-span wood bridge within the country. Built in 1862, the recently renovated bridge is 226 feet long. It's also the gateway to climbing trails and a number of other idyllic swimming holes and beaches on the Yuba. (Wear a life jacket, because the water will be cold and rip-roaring.)
If you are available in spring, Tulip Gardens Crystal Hermitage at Ananda, a meditation and retreat center at the tip of a protracted and winding road, will encourage awe.
And if you happen to are available in the autumn, Nevada City is a primary destination for autumn colours. Get a Map for self-guided tourswith 15 chosen destinations, in a visitor center in the town.
When you go
North Star Mining Museum: Open Wednesday through Sunday from noon to 4 p.m. May through October and by appointment the remaining of the 12 months. 933 Allison Ranch Road, Grass Valley; https://nevadacountyhistory.org
Holbrook Hotel: Rooms from $170. 212 W. Main St., Grass Valley; https://holbrooke.com
National Hotel: Rooms from $211. 211 Broad St., Nevada City; www.thenationalexchangehotel.com.
Nevada Theatre: Check out the upcoming events and try the renovation and the attractive murals within the https://nevadatheatre.com/. The theater is positioned at 401 Broad St. in Nevada City.
Center for the Arts: The event calendar will be found at https://thecenterforthearts.org/. The theater is positioned at 314 W. Main St. in Grass Valley.
Brewery: 300 Spring St. in Nevada City; www.brewbiltbrewhaus.com/
image credit : www.mercurynews.com