An elegant national costume that defines Japanese culture, the kimono embodies craftsmanship and tradition. It means “the thing to wear”, is wrapped left over right and fastened with a sash and was a well-liked garment for each sexes from the seventeenth century onwards.
Although its popularity has declined as a replacement of origin, the kimono has been reinvented worldwide, offering a brand new vision of high fashion and Revolutionizing fashion trends. The latest Exhibition“Kimono: From Kyoto to the Catwalk” shows how this garment has inspired artisans, artists, fashion designers and filmmakers over the past three centuries.
Curated by Anna Jackson, Head of Asia on the V&A, the exhibition features an astonishing choice of around 300 exhibits, interactive displays and explanatory texts that explore the evolution of the kimono and the numerous influence it has had on the world of fashion.
Victoria & Albert Museum
Tradition from Kyoto
Kyoto, the epicenter of design innovation and handicrafts, experienced an explosion of textile development that culminated within the Edo period (1615-1868). At this time, the role of the ruler (military commander) was represented by the impeccable clothing worn by samurai warriors on formal occasions. Although the colour and fabric appeared easy, upon closer inspection, small, intricate patterns adorned the material.
The status of ladies was also reflected in several varieties of kimono for specific occasions. The first section of the exhibition presents early examples, corresponding to the (long-sleeved) kimono for single women. These featured enticing designs that demonstrated complex technical skills in batik dyeing (), stencil dyeing (), freehand dyeing (), and silk pongee weaving (a light-weight plain-woven fabric) ().
The exhibition pays particular attention to prints that show visitors how the kimono was used in several social circles. Traditional Japanese theater was a superb platform for extravagant designs that reflected the feminine roles often played by men, who were known as. Of particular interest are the pattern books – – which circulated amongst manufacturers and consumers, very like fashion magazines are read today.
The Dutch played a vital role in introducing and commercializing the kimono outside Japan. As the one foreigners permitted by the ruling shogun to trade within the country, they were the primary to bring the kimono and its fabrics to Europe. However, when Japan opened as much as the world in the course of the Meiji period (1868-1889), a energetic exchange of ideas led to a wider spread of the kimono in Europe and the USA.
Niday Picture Library / Alamy
It soon became a sensation and was featured on portraits of notable figures corresponding to Amelie Matisse, the wife of the French artist. This led to significant changes in the way in which clothes were made. For example, the kimono-inspired cut, characterised by its elegant draping and by London clothier Lucile (aka Lady Lucy Duff-Gordon) is a results of his influence.
It owes its elegance to the fabrics and materials used to make it. Although the kimono will be made out of cotton, linen or ramie (a plant within the nettle family), the preferred pieces were made out of silk. The inherent properties of this material – lightness, shine and its ability to drape beautifully – made it ideal for probably the most exquisite designs.
Propaganda, film and fashion
In the Nineteen Thirties, Japan increasingly commodified its war propaganda, using children's toys, school supplies, and even kimonos to whip the nation right into a warlike mood. Norakuroa stray dog in one of the vital popular comics of the time, became the unofficial mascot of the Imperial Army and was depicted wearing a kimono. Some examples of this development will be present in the exhibition, where war imagery was incorporated into kimono patterns for young boys and young men. It is sort of a revelation that the kimono became a commonplace a part of war propaganda.
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The kimono has also prolonged its influence to modern film. Many of the Star Wars costumes were inspired by the kimono. As a young director, George Lucas was influenced by the work of Japan's most famous filmmaker. Akira Kurosawawhich eventually trickled all the way down to the costumes for the movies, namely Obi-Wan Kenobi, played by Alec Guinness in the unique film. When the franchise made a comeback in 2015 under JJ Abrams, costume designer Dave Crossman wanted proceed the kimono-inspired look for the characters.
It was inevitable that this exotic garment would enter European fashion after the Dutch introduced it. From the tremendous ladies of the nineteenth century who enjoyed the liberty of movement and exquisite patterns of the kimono, to its adoption by highly stylized twentieth century artists corresponding to David Bowie and Björk, Anna Jackson offers visitors an experience of the kimono as a dynamic garment. The work of up to date designers corresponding to Alexander McQueen And Jotaro Saitōwho’ve often handled a person interpretation of the kimono, is a special highlight.
Nick Knight
In the ultimate section, contemporary design fusions that mix materials and trends open up countless possibilities for future exploration, corresponding to the daring design motifs of Nigerian-born designer Duro Olowu. In this manner, this multi-layered exhibition invites visitors to experience the threads of creation and connection, witnessing the evolution of an iconic piece of Japanese clothing from that era through contemporary fashion.
image credit : theconversation.com